The Clear Skin Diet

Although we’d all like to think our acne days are behind us, breakouts affect 54 percent of women and 40 percent of men older than 25, according to a study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. What’s more, the number of adult acne sufferers continues to rise. “I have seen an uptick in adult acne in my practice over the past 18 years,” says Valori Treloar, MD, dermatologist and coauthor of The Clear Skin Diet.

As more adults head to the dermatologist, experts ponder the causes of this unwelcome condition. While possible contributors include pollution, high stress levels, and newly developed prescription medications, an emerging body of research points to another culprit: the Western diet.

But wait, haven’t doctors, nutritionists, and reporters been telling us for decades that the link between food and acne is merely a myth? That loading up on chocolate bars and fried foods will not result in a face full of zits?

 The food-acne connection

Although a famous 1969 study of chocolate’s effect on skin supposedly debunked any connection between food and skin problems, dermatologists may have dismissed diet’s impact on acne too quickly. Recent studies show that high-glycemic foods such as refined grains and processed sugars— the mainstays of a typical Western diet—trigger breakouts.

High-glycemic fare such as French fries, breakfast cereal, white bread, and soda boost blood sugar too quickly— and the pancreas responds by making extra insulin to bring those sugar levels down. As an unintended consequence, the insulin also signals the sebaceous glands to manufacture and secrete sebum, an oil-like substance carried to our pores via hair follicles. In proper quantities, sebum is a good thing; it flushes out dead cells and keeps your skin lubricated. But too much causes the bacterium Propionibacterium acnes to over-propagate and jam up hair follicles. The result? Whiteheads and blackheads on your forehead, chin, and cheeks.

In addition, what Americans don’t eat may prove equally problematic for their skin. For instance, with 97 percent of our grain intake coming from processed rather than whole grains, we don’t get enough of the fiber, zinc, and vitamin B6  that can help curb acne. And the vast majority of US adults fail to eat seven to nine servings of fruits and vegetables daily, leading to a shortage of blemish-blocking vitamins and antioxidants.

Overconsumption of omega-6 fatty acids from processed foods and vegetable oils, coupled with under consumption of the anti-inflammatory omega-3s found in salmon, walnuts, and flaxseeds only compounds the problem, since inflammation (already implicated in heart disease, diabetes, and prostate and breast cancers) may very well damage our largest organ, the skin, as well.

On the bright side, following a low-glycemic diet may zap those zits once and for all. In an Australian study, researchers examined 43 male acne patients, giving one group a low-glycemic diet of whole grains, lean meat, and fish while keeping the control group on a regimen of high-carb, high-glycemic foods. After 12 weeks, the low-glycemic dieters had far fewer pimples than the control group.

 Bad-news Foods

Before you declare war on ginger snaps and macaroni and cheese, know that food affects everyone differently— some people are wired to react more severely to acne-promoting foods than others. Not all acne patients are the same. To determine which foods spell trouble for your skin, Richard Fried, MD, dermatologist and author of Healing Adult Acne, recommends keeping a food log to track what you eat. “Take note of certain foods or types of food you ate four to 24 hours before an acne flare-up,” he says. See how your skin reacts to specific foods and eliminate anything that causes problems. While no across-the-board food prescription will cure acne, experts suggest steering clear of these specific foods and food categories to score glowing, blemish-free skin:

REFINED GRAINS: Because they are so highly processed, many cereals, breads, and other flour-based foods lack the zinc and antioxidants our skin needs to combat acne.

REFINED SUGARS: Candy, soda, pastries, and cookies can be particularly troublesome for those prone to acne. These indulgences spike blood sugar levels, which your body tries to bring down by producing more insulin and male hormones. In turn, these hormones prompt the sebaceous glands to work overtime, resulting in blocked pores and inflammation.

MILK: “If there’s one thing you should remove from your diet if you want clear skin, it’s milk,” says Alan Logan, ND, coauthor of The Clear Skin Diet. Although relatively low on the glycemic index, milk carries a heavy hormone load—even organic cow’s milk contains hormones because it comes from nursing cows. These hormones, along with a high percentage of calcium, have made milk a suspected acne trigger for decades. Dermatologists believe milk accelerates the body’s synthesis of androgens, male hormones present in both men and women, which causes the sebaceous glands to crank out excess sebum. You can avoid milk’s blemish-inducing effects without skimping on calcium by switching to calcium-fortified soy milk and other nondairy milks and eating plenty of spinach, collard greens, and tofu.

VEGETABLE OILS: Corn, sunflower, safflower, and sesame oils have far more omega-6 fatty acids than anti-inflammatory omega-3s. This imbalance promotes inflammation, which causes skin cells to clump together and jam pores.

Acne-zapping foods

Now that you’ve figured out which foods to avoid, you may worry that you’ll face serious food deprivation. But rest assured there are plenty of delicious foods that also help fight acne, including:

WHOLE GRAINS: When it comes to thwarting acne-causing inflammation, fiber-packed whole grains work like a charm. “Whole grains carry a lot of antioxidants,” says Logan. “They also stabilize blood sugar and prevent insulin spikes.” But be careful when perusing grocery store aisles for whole grain items—crafty label lingo can make a loaf of bread or box of pasta seem like a healthy choice, when it really carries only a small percentage of whole grains. Logan advises checking a product’s nutrition info to make sure it’s high in fiber and low in sugar. Even better: Forget wheat and give ancient grains like quinoa and millet a try.

FISH: Heralded as the premiere source of omega-3 fatty acids, cold-water, oily fish are loaded with anti-inflammatory eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). The Clear Skin Diet lauds oily fish such as mackerel, salmon, anchovies, and sardines as the most potent choices for blemish-free skin.

GREEN VEGETABLES: Packed with Salmon Dill Soup SERVES 4-6 2 medium salmon fillets, skin removed 2 cups water 1 medium sweet potato, peeled and diced 2 medium carrots ½ onion, diced 2 cups rice milk ½ cup finely chopped fresh dill, stems removed 1 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons cornstarch inflammation-fighting nutrients and loads of antioxidants, most green leafy veggies contain plenty of fiber, which helps slow the rise of blood sugar after eating.

PURPLE AND DEEP RED FOODS: According to The Clear Skin Diet, foods containing anthocyanins are high in antioxidants and help maintain blood flow to the skin, promoting optimum cell turnover (essential for keeping pores clear). Açai, pomegranates, purple carrots, black grapes, and beets are all great choices.

GREEN TEA: Among its numerous health benefits, green tea also helps keep pimples from popping up. It’s chock-full of the antioxidant catechin EGCG, an effective anti-inflammatory. But beware of bottled green tea drinks, which often contain scads of added sugar and calories.